Lunch with Larry

Yesterday I attended "Lunch with Larry." Larry is the General Manager of L'auberge du lac and he frequently has lunch, breakfast, dinner with employees and managers to keep informed and to inform his employees.
As I mentioned in yesterday's post I was allowed to create the desserts for the buffet being served. I made a cream cheese and lemon parfait with blueberries and a poached pear and almond tart. We also served the chocolate bourbon pecan tart we already had on hand.
I was hoping that at least a few people would indulge in dessert, much to my pleasant surprise, they cleaned the platters. Larry praised the pear and almond tart to the entire room. (Honestly, I loved the way they turned out, they were delicious and I could have eaten an entire platter of them alone!) Since, I never see anyone eat anything I make it was a treat for me to look around the room and watch people enjoy my goods. When I saw the GM take one bite of the tart and lean over to the person beside him and recommend them I was ecstatic. I could only think, "This is why I do this!"

“Be careful what you wish for.”

“Be careful what you wish for.” –Dad
Things at work have been stagnant for me. For the last few months I show up for my scheduled shift and, for the most part, I decorate cakes: five-layer cakes for the Desserts’ shop, seven-layer cakes for Le Café and three-layer cakes for the buffet. I’ve made a few other things along the way and I’ve made the occasional birthday cake as well. I’ve been frustrated and honestly a little disappointed. I have been itching to cook and use the skills I acquired at Le Cordon Bleu.
This week it was all handed to me over the course of a 24-hour period. I was assigned a two-tier wedding cake and was allowed to create a menu and produce the desserts for an employee luncheon with L’auberge’s General Manager.
The wedding cake was assigned to me on Saturday afternoon. The wedding reception was Sunday evening. The cake was baked at 9 pm Saturday night. I’d love to tell you that I didn’t have a few stressful moments about the timeline but I’d be lying. As it turns out my worrying was for naught, I had the cake finished with hours to spare and no major setbacks to report. Actually, it was a piece of cake well, make that about 250 pieces of cake!
I was given a little more notice on the luncheon and had a game plan in mind for what I wanted to make. The only problem was now with the wedding cake on my list as well as having to pitch in with some of the daily production I was forced to make a few sacrifices. The individual chocolate cakes I had planned were scratched so I used some chocolate bourbon pecan tortes we already had prepared. The other two desserts, a cream cheese and lemon mousse parfait with blueberries and a poached pear and almond tart were made by multi-tasking components and assembly while waiting for other projects to come together.
Everything was made in 24 hours with a quick trip home for a 5-hour nap in between shifts. For those of you who know me well, you know of my history with fondant and my love of sleep so I’ll admit, how I covered a cake in fondant on five hours sleep is a mystery, even to me.
I've included a few photos of the wedding cake. The bride wanted the cake covered in white fondant with black swirls, since I did not speak with her myself this was my interpretation. I'm off to lunch with the GM, I hope my desserts are gobbled up!

Strawberry Shortcake for 650

Last week we had a banquet for 650 people, a birthday party. I knew when the banquet was mentioned at our morning line-up that the task would be an all hands on board project. (While L'auberge regularly does banquets this large it was my first since we see more large banquets during the holiday season.) The original plan was to make cupcakes. Somewhere along the way the plate-up changed to a individual size yellow bundt cake with, strawberry sauce and chantilly cream; a deconstructed strawberry shortcake.
To accomplish the task we laid out a table with sheet pans and placed the plates on each pan, then built layers of sheet pans and plates. We needed a total of 109 sheet pans to hold all those plates! Ok, I admit it, I had not imagined doing a plate-up of this magnitude when I started in this field and it is amazing to watch all the tricks the people who came before me have devised! Fascinating.
The plate-up took a staff of five about two hours. A lot of that time was spend gathering racks, sheet pans and getting 650 dessert plates that matched. The cakes had been baked off during the week and the strawberry sauce was made the day before. The chantilly cream was whipped as we went (there was some problem with it being too soft.) The actual task of putting the plate together was a well corriographed "dance." The bundt cakes were placed at the 2 o'clock position on the plate, another person followed behind piping a chantilly rosette in the 8 o'clock position, followed by another placing the chocolate sticks at an angle on the rosette, yet another person placed the "Happy Birthday" chocolate sail on the plate while another staff member placed strawberry sauce on the cake, the final touch was a sprinkle of powdered sugar across the cake. The plate's rims were wiped and they were removed to a rack, revealing a new set of plates for our dance to begin again. It was a like a team relay and found that it built a level of trust and comradery I had yet to see with this staff.
*Sorry about the photo quality. The pictures were taken in a rush on my iPhone, we had bigger priorities to worry about, but I couldn't resist sharing this with all of you.

Happy Father's Day, Papa!

The Realities of Production

On the transition from photojournalist to pastry chef I'm learning some important lessons.

First of all, producing products in a real kitchen, opposed to the culinary school kitchen, means we have to get the product out, en mass. The bakery is supported by the outlets in the casino. Which means we produce the desserts served in the restaurants and our Desserts' shop as well as all banquets. A large part of our production goes to the buffet. Sometimes, okay all the time, I think, "If I only had more time!" Things are produced quickly and so far, quickness means cutting some corners and not doing things the way I was taught in culinary school. I sometimes I find this a disappointment but wonder if I will one day cut corners in my own bake shop as well. After all, you have to keep up with demand. Of course, with the stipulation that you are not sacrificing quality.

As with photojournalism, I often create things that are not in line with the vision of the editor (or in this case, Chef.) It will be interesting to see as my career goes on how much creative freedom I am allowed. Or if, as it was with photography, I'll spend hours of my life trying to convince my boss to go with my vision.

This week was a great example of both cases: I had to make mini Hawaiian cakes (filled with coconut pastry cream and pineapple, frosted with whipped cream.) I liked the plain version and felt that was better left simple but, the chef wanted them piped with a star tip up the sides. I thought the final version came out okay but, I come from the elegant and classic training of Le Cordon Bleu where I don't think the instructors would have approved. Given more time I think I could have made each one look like an elegantly frosted little cake but, I had an hour to make about 50 of them ...

Yesterday, I had 26 cakes on my list! A challenge for me but, 16 of them were display cakes, which means "Make them look really cool and different!" I only got 8 complete but I played with some fun ideas and creating them takes a lot more time than just torting, filling and frosting a three layer cake. Overall, I was pleased with their playfulness.

The Here and Now

Upon my return to Louisiana I had a few interviews lined up ...
The first was at L'auberge du lac, a casino in Lake Charles, La, for the position of Lead Baker. I was offered the job. The rest as they say is history. I moved to Lake Charles in early May and started work shortly after.
The casino recently hired a new Executive Pastry Chef, Bill Foltz. His resume is long and impressive. He is about to compete is the Pastry Olympics in Phoenix in early July. The staff has been told that upon his return to the bake shop following the competition we will roll out a new menu ... I am very excited to see the changes he makes.
Until then, I currently decorate lots of cakes.
On Sunday, I did a VIP plate-up of: milk chocolate cheesecake glazed with ganache and a white chocolate pitachio angalise, a triple chocolate torte with raspberry sauce and a white chocolate mousse filled tuxedo strawberry.
I've been busy in my home kitchen playing with new ideas, recipes and flavor pairings because The Bakery, My Bakery will be a reality before we know it. (Mom and dad enjoyed the lemon poppy seed muffins with meyer lemon glaze this morning!) Feel free to weigh in with your favorite bake shop goodies and the name is still in the works too ...

Portland and Beyond ...

After my time at August (the externship was a quick six week program.) I took a little time off to visit family and friends. I also needed to go back to Portland to collect a few of my things. Largely, I missed my car!
I spend about a month enjoying all the bakeries of Portland I could find, even venturing out as far as Hood River to check out a really cute little spot called South Bank Kitchen. I did some hiking in the Gorge and wandered the streets of downtown. Sadly, I discovered a little too late that I really did love Portland. It is beautiful and convenient (the public transportation system is incredible) and offers something for everyone. I regret not exploring more while I was in school there. But, I don't regret the hours I spent hidden in the school's labs discovering. After all, that was my real reason for going to Portland.
After weeks of playing tourist in Portland, I wandered my way across country back home to Louisiana ...

Externship at August

I’m back! It has been an interesting couple of months and I want to catch everyone up to speed.
After the Christmas break, I started my externship at Chef John Besh's Restaurant August in New Orleans, La. If you haven't heard of it, you can check it out here:

http://www.restaurantaugust.com/restaurantandbar.html

It was a great experience. I worked long and tiring days but I got a lot of insight on the world of a five-star restaurant. I worked along side Jennifer Loos, the Pastry Sous Chef . We created all of the desserts for service as well as all of the banquets, including a dessert banquet of the Queen of Mardi Gras.
I had the opportunity there to make every component of our desserts. I made more ice cream bases and churned more ice cream than I will likely eat in a lifetime. But it was a great first experience. I conquered a lot of fears and learned to share my kitchen with line cooks and runners and being in Chef Besh’s kitchen, a few TV crews. Tom Colicchio and the cast of Top Chef New York even stopped in for dinner one night.
One of our most popular desserts at August was the Napoleon of Nougatine with Valhrona chocolate bavarois and salted toffee ice cream. The dessert was so popular I made salted toffee ice cream everyday.
The tart pictured is a buttermilk custard with blueberries. It was for a bridal brunch banquet.
The chocolate towers are part of the Trio of Chocolate dessert. It is a bittersweet pate incasing a milk chocolate Bavarian.